What are the differences between Glycolic, Lactic and Salicylic Peels?

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN GLYCOLIC LACTIC & SALICYLIC PEELS?

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Glycolic acid

This is the most active and beneficial peel and is made from sugar cane. Its molecule size is very small, therefore can penetrate through the cell walls. It will trigger new formation of collagen and reduce wrinkles on the skin’s surface, giving the skin a much smoother feel and look.

Lactic acid

Is a natural humectant which occurs naturally in the skin and because of this, it is able to pull moisture from the air and hold it into the skin. It is less irritating and more moisturising than Glycolic, so can be used in higher concentrations.

Salicylic acid

A mild acid which works well for mild acne, oily skin and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Can be mixed with Glycolic to peel the top layer of the skin and to open the plugged pores to normalise the skin.

Lactic and Salicylic peels compliment each other perfectly.

Following a peel, the skin absorbs the skincare more effectively, ensuring even better results from your skincare.

Juliette Armand Professional Services and Products

Glycolic Acid 50%

100% pure Glycolic acid. Penetrates the epidermis. Keratolytic effect, skin cell regeneration, reduction of fine lines and discolouration, tightening. PH 1.2%

Glycolic Acid 70%

Small molecular structure, allows penetration into skin cells. PH 0.7%

Results in immediate and intense exfoliation of the horny layer and simultaneous regeneration of cells.

Cell regeneration, reduction of wrinkles, acne scars and discolouration, glow enhancement.

Lactic Acid 50%

Larger molecule, milder than that of glycolic acid, thus preventing skin irritations. PH 1.5%

It stimulates the production of collagen and naturally hydrates the skin.

A combination of mild exfoliation, regeneration and hydration that it offers makes it an ideal peeling treatment for sensitive and dehydrated skins, or having a chemical peel for the first time.

Lactic Acid 80%

Sensitive and dry skins, melasma, wrinkles, acne rosacea, photoageing benefit from this peel.

Naturally hydrates the skin, and increases the formation of ceramides, thus enhancing the function of the keratin barrier.

PH 0.9%

WHAT IS PEELING?

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Peels are a salon only treatment performed by a trained Beauty Therapist.

Simplistic answer is it involves applying a chemical solution to the skin to remove its outer layers. Depending on how much skin they remove and how deep they penetrate will depend on the type of peel used, its strength and how long it is left on.

There are three types of peel: Light, medium and deep.

These have varying percentages of active ingredients and different PH levels.

What really matters when it comes to peels is their PH level. This indicates how deep the peel will penetrate into your skin and how much irritation you will get. The thing to remember is; the lower the PH, the deeper the peel.

Light Peels

Light peels are the gentlest type of peels available, they only remove the top layer of the skin, known as the epidermis, and give your skin an instantly brighter look as well as a smoother, more even texture. They can be used to minimise fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage, mild acne scarring, age spots and dry or flaking skin. They are usually made from alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids, known as AHAs and BHAs and include glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid. These types of peels use active ingredients to penetrate and deliver anti-oxidants and vitamins deep into the skin encouraging the new cells to grow stronger and healthier. A course of between six and 10 treatments is usually recommended to achieve the best results. Superficial peels do not hurt, you only feel a slight tingling or stinging sensation, and have virtually no recovery time. You can be a little bit pink afterwards and may get some mild flaking of the skin.

Medium Depth Peels

Medium depth peels give more dramatic results than light peels. Usually derived from TCA (trichloroacetic acid), they penetrate deeper in to the skin and can be used to treat sun damage, pigmentation and wrinkles. The downside of medium peels is that you will have a longer recovery and more side effects. You may also feel more discomfort during the treatment than you would with a superficial peel including burning and stinging, which can last for 30 minutes to an hour after treatment. You may want to hide yourself away for a few days following a medium peel as your face can become swollen, pink and itchy following treatment and you will get more ‘peeling’ of the skin than you would with a superficial peel. You can also get patches of brown and white skin on your face during the healing process and in rare cases you can get scarring from medium depth peels. Generally recovery takes around a week.

Deep Peels

Deep peels are the strongest type of chemical peel available and can achieve amazing results for sun damage, scarring and deep lines and wrinkles but be prepared to look quite scary after your treatment. They usually use carbolic acid (Phenol peels) or high strength TCA to penetrate the deeper layers, or dermal layers, of the skin. However this type of peel is painful and can take months to fully recover from. Your skin will be very red and feel almost like it is sun burnt after the procedure. Although you will heal in one to three weeks the redness can still be visible for months after the treatment but the results of the peel are long lasting. The side effects of deep peels can look quite horrific. Your whole face will be swollen for a couple of days and will then scab. You will also get a lot of peeling and your skin may be quite itchy. For some people it can take up to two weeks before they want to go out in public

THE ANTI-AGE NUTRIENT

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Hyaluronic acid is widely used in skin care creams, injectables and supplements. This magic ingredient is a gel- like water holding molecule that is the space filler and cushioning agent in all people. HA acid cushions joints, nerves, hydrates skin and hair and fills the eye.

Almost half of the body’s Hyaluronic Acid is located in the collagen of skin. Hyaluronic Acid helps retain over several hundred times its weight in water within the cells, making it an excellent hydrator and moisturiser. It works by attracting moisture to the skin and locking it in, binding it to the underlying cellular structure, thus it increases volume, plumps up wrinkles and creases and helps smooth the surface of the skin.

Uses of Hyaluronic Acid are wide and in skin care creams it is considered to be more important than collagen. HA acid is mostly used in anti-ageing products and cosmetic procedures. It is naturally destroyed by the body, so it needs to be used regularly.

Other uses and benefits of using Hyaluronic Acid are to help ease joint pain especially in the knees. After eye surgery HA acid can help lubricate and heal eye tissue. Gum Disease can benefit also from HA acid as it is an important connective tissue component in the gums helping with the regeneration of fresh healthy gum tissue. In a nutshell HA acid can heal, lubricate, moisturise, improve muscular strength and increase mental alertness.

A good Hyaluronic Acid depends largely on the brand you buy, but a lower weight molecule is better to use as it will penetrate much deeper and is absorbed far more efficiently by the skin than a larger molecule would.

JULIETTE ARMAND SKINBOOSTERS

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Chronos Paramedical Treatment

The Chronos, Greek word for “Time” is a 10 x Paramedical treatment program which is available in select beauty salons. It is the alternative for dermal fillers.

It is perfect for anyone who doesn’t choose to go down the path of injectables, or possibly wants to address the overall texture and hydration of their skin complimenting with injectables.

The Chronos Therapy treatment uses their own patented active ingredients, complimenting the latest in cutting edge technology to combat signs of ageing. The Chemists who produced this treatment have been in the beauty industry since 1992 and have been using ingredients which other companies have only just introduced! So rest assured, these people know a thing or two about anti-ageing that’s for sure!

This treatment will give unbelievable overall results in the texture of the skin, whilst increasing the collagen production by up to 382% over a four week period! Skin is positively glowing after this treatment.

Each of the sessions goes through a series of peeling, serums and masks in a luxurious, relaxing treatment lasting 1 hour and 10 minutes.

CLEANSING. This removes all traces of make-up, dirt and grime from the face.

PEELING. Glycolic and salicylic acid chemically exfoliates the skin removing dead skin cells and promoting cell regeneration.

HYDRA SYSTEM. A serum and rubber like mask is applied to the whole face, covering everything other than my nostrils. (only if the client is comfortable with covering the eyes and lips otherwise these will not be covered) The mask enhances the skin’s water reserves.

ANTI AGEING SYSTEM. This stage stimulates the production of collagen and elastin which are extremely important for skin rejuvenation. This is done using another serum and creamy mask which is massaged into the skin, for ultimate relaxation.

ANTIOXIDANT SYSTEM. This contributes to antioxidant fortification of the skin against environmental impurities, preventing premature ageing using a serum and cream. These products are high in A Lipoic acid which is well known as the most powerful antioxidant ingredient.

The entire treatment is 1 hour and 10 minutes at the end of each session, the client will leave the salon with skin that is glowing, dewy and definitely looking at least five years younger.

A course of 10 treatments over five weeks is recommended for best results.

There are three retail products, Antitox Hydra serum, Wrinkle Correct Cream and Wrinkle Filler.